JBA 0-10V Breakout Boxes

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JeffB418

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I've added a break out box to the line of JBA products.


This new product allows easy access to the 0-10V port channels for DIY projects. Each 0-10V GX12-6 connector on the Wave Engine, Wave Engine Light Ed, and Control X4 actually has 4 input or output channels each. Connecting this box to your 0-10V INPUT port gives you access to the 4 channels plus the 5V output supply. This allows you to connect up discrete buttons or switches to your Hydros such as magnetic door reed switches, magnetic float switches, push buttons, and more. Any input that provides a open and closed state between 2 wires. Just connect the switch between the red input for that channel and the black ground. Hydros will sense 2.5V on an open/floating switch input, and 0V/GND when the switch is closed/engaged. Additionally you can use Single Pole Double Throw (SPDT) switches with the common leg connected to the input port, and the 2 pole ports connected to 5V and Ground each to be able to have a 3 state input (High/5V, floating 2.5V, and Low/0V).

This BoB also allows users to interface analog signals to the Hydros such as this Room and Humidity sensor: DFR0588 DFRobot | Development Boards, Kits, Programmers | DigiKey
Since this board draws very low power, you can power it from the supplied 5V on the box, and then interface the analog humidity channel to one BoB input channel, and room temp to another input channel. Do note that you can only draw up to 150mA MAX on the 5V output, and this is shared between both input and output 0-10V ports if the device has both.

Finally you can also use this box on the 0-10V OUTPUT port as well to interface to other 3rd party devices for control if the standard 0-10V cables can't be used. There is also a secondary GX12-6 port on the front of the box that is identical to the pinout on the Hydros, allowing users to passthrough any signals needed. In the case of 0-10V outputs, you can use a standard hydros adapter cable (the 3.5mm cable for example) to interface to 2 pumps via this secondary port, and then use the break out box terminals to adapt the other 2 channels to a different interface connector.

The secondary connector on the front can also be used to interface to existing JBA accessories such as the JBA Button Box when used on the 0-10V Input port, just note that what ever channel the secondary accessory is using (Channel 1 in the case of the JBA Button Box), cant be used on the breakout box since its already being used. But that does give you access to the other 3 unused channels.

The following devices have a 0-10V INPUT port:
Control X4
Wave Engine
Wave Engine LE

The following devices have a 0-10V OUTPUT port:
Control X4
Wave Engine

Follow the instructions here on how to add switches and sensors to your Hydros via the app here: HYDROS Control - How to add a 0-10V Input

1638892810201.png


Interfacing to the DFR0588:
1638899048756.png
Connect the white header harness to either the port with RH (room humidity) or T (temp). Using wire cutters remove the black header and strip the wires. Connect the RED wire to the 5V port on the BoB, Black to any Black port on the BoB, and the Blue wire to 1 of the 4 inputs. If you want to run both temp and humidity, only connect the blue wire of the secondary harness, red and black wires can be removed on the secondary harness. In hydros, to add these inputs to your device, refer to the sections "Adding Room Temp Input" and "Adding Humidity Input" at the following tutorial: https://www.jbaquaticsllc.com/hydros-humiditytemp-module

If you ever want to debug an input to see what Hydros is reading for actual voltages, add a new input as follows:

1638899400403.png

This section goes over a way to display the actual voltage being driven to your Input port for diagnostic purposes. Note that you can have both this and other types of inputs existing at the same time on your Hydros dashboard.

To make a diagnostic input first make another new input of Type 0-10V Input. Then select Analog for the Input Mode. Select the input number you'd like to monitor. Leave the Scale Factor and Offset to the values displayed, and finally select Generic. This will now show you the actual voltage being read by hydros on that input. You can do this for multiple inputs to monitor whats being read.
 
Can the humidity sensor and hydros be setup in a way to trigger an exhaust fan when the humidity reaches a certain %?
 
Can the humidity sensor and hydros be setup in a way to trigger an exhaust fan when the humidity reaches a certain %?
In theory yes, you could be able to use any input type (including analog types) to trigger outputs to on/off.
 
I have this sensor on my desk right now but haven’t had time to try it out. It requires an external power supply since it draws more power than hydros can provide on the 0-10v input.

DFROBOT Gravity: Analog CO2 Gas Sensor for Arduino https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R5CCH7U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_OUNn8NPzb8Lpc
So I was able to connect this sensor up with an external 5V power supply, but after reading the datasheet more it appears this might not be the best sensor for Hydros. The sensor is correctly reading a voltage output based on apparent changes in CO2, but looking at the sample code provided the mapping of a voltage reading to a CO2 PPM isnt as straight forward. I failed to dig into the datasheet before purchasing and the mapping from voltage to PPM isnt directly linear, its actually logarithmic. Hydros supports linear conversions of voltages to a display value but it does not support logarithmic conversions. So at a high level you could just use the voltage as a reference and see trends, but you wont be able to get an accurate actual PPM value with this sensor.
 
So I was able to connect this sensor up with an external 5V power supply, but after reading the datasheet more it appears this might not be the best sensor for Hydros. The sensor is correctly reading a voltage output based on apparent changes in CO2, but looking at the sample code provided the mapping of a voltage reading to a CO2 PPM isnt as straight forward. I failed to dig into the datasheet before purchasing and the mapping from voltage to PPM isnt directly linear, its actually logarithmic. Hydros supports linear conversions of voltages to a display value but it does not support logarithmic conversions. So at a high level you could just use the voltage as a reference and see trends, but you wont be able to get an accurate actual PPM value with this sensor.
Thanks for the input. This one looks linear no? If you think it *might* work I could give it a try.

 
Thanks for the input. This one looks linear no? If you think it *might* work I could give it a try.

Yes that one looks like a better fit. I would still recommend using an external 5v supply to power it.
 
This is timely, I just hooked this sensor up to your breakout box yesterday. I thought the slope and offset would be straight forward but I am questioning the reading, seems to read twice as high compared to my desktop unit. I am using 3125 for the slope and -1250 for the offset. But the example code has some voltage conversion stuff I don’t really understand. Any help is appreciated. Here is the code and info: Gravity__Analog_Infrared_CO2_Sensor_For_Arduino_SKU__SEN0219-DFRobot

Why not just use the 5v input on the breakout box?
 
This is timely, I just hooked this sensor up to your breakout box yesterday. I thought the slope and offset would be straight forward but I am questioning the reading, seems to read twice as high compared to my desktop unit. I am using 3125 for the slope and -1250 for the offset. But the example code has some voltage conversion stuff I don’t really understand. Any help is appreciated. Here is the code and info: Gravity__Analog_Infrared_CO2_Sensor_For_Arduino_SKU__SEN0219-DFRobot

Why not just use the 5v input on the breakout box?
The 5v ports on the box are for low current applications only. Under 150mA. This sensor has a peak of 150mA which might be on the hairy edge. It might work but you can’t power anything else on your 0-10v input or output port.
 
The 5v ports on the box are for low current applications only. Under 150mA. This sensor has a peak of 150mA which might be on the hairy edge. It might work but you can’t power anything else on your 0-10v input or output port.
Seems to be working. I have the humidity and temp sensor powered as well. And a reed switch.

How about the slope and offset? What should be right?
 
Wouldn’t the offset be -400? When you leave the scale and offset as default on hydros you should simply get the voltage. What is the number then?
 
Quick update I got this working for co2 with an MHZ14A (off Amazon, didn’t go with the dfrobot one) I did use 3125 as the slope and -1250 as the offset seems to be reading correctly so far.
 
Quick update I got this working for co2 with an MHZ14A (off Amazon, didn’t go with the dfrobot one) I did use 3125 as the slope and -1250 as the offset seems to be reading correctly so far.
How accurate does it seem? does it need to be calibrated?
 
How accurate does it seem? does it need to be calibrated?
I haven’t calibrated it. I would consider it accurate but not precise. For instance, it is currently bouncing around a voltage of .54-.55 volts which I can’t say surprises me as far as the voltage moving every few seconds. But that translates to 437-469 ppm which is not going to give you a great feeling on the precision. (I’m sure many co2 monitors probably average the readings out over time) I’m just looking for a general range though so it is fine for me, though it would be better if hydros would allow an alert threshold where I could be notified if the ppm went over say 1200ppm.

As far as accuracy I have another co2 monitor near it reading 490ppm so it seems to be within 5-10%
 
These sensors auto calibrate over time and use a background CO2 constant of 400 or 450ppm to do the calibration, if your background levels are higher than this it will end up a little off and act a bit funky around the 450ppm mark. They also not designed to read below 400ppm so the closer you get to 400ppm the worse the accuracy gets.

Both are highly susceptible to moisture over 75% with the MH-Z14 being much more accurate and having a heated sensor to try to reduce the impact of humidity (good to about 88% RH), the MH-Z19 will stand up better to moisture though and tends not to be affected by other chemicals (such as alcohol or bug spray) like the MH-Z14 (and not much more expensive).
 
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