Budgeting for a DIY AWC build - how do you guys track project costs?

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Munaz

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Hey everyone,

I am currently planning out a new Auto Water Change (AWC) setup using a Hydros Control 4 and some solenoid valves. Since I am trying to keep this build on a strict budget, I’ve been trying to keep a close eye on my "hobby fund" to see what I can actually afford this month before I start ordering parts from Amazon or local shops here in the UAE.

It is actually becoming a bit of a headache because I usually keep my project money on my fab ratibi card, but for some reason, I haven't been able to check my balance lately. The portal just keeps acting up on me whenever I try to see what's left for my reef gear.

Anyway, while I wait for that to get sorted, I was curious how the rest of you manage the financial side of these DIY projects? Do you use a specific spreadsheet to track every fitting and sensor, or do you just buy as you go? I really want to avoid overspending on the solenoids if I can find a cheaper way to interface them with the sense ports.

Any advice on tracking costs (or even where to find cheaper 24V valves locally) would be great!
 
Hey Munaz, I’ve had the same issue with my FAB Ratibi card. When the portal acts up, I just check my balance using the other methods described in this ratibi card salary check article. it usually shows what’s really available. For costs, I just jot down each part in a small spreadsheet and track spending as I go. Keeps me from overspending on valves or fittings.
 
I feel your pain! Reef aquariums and budgets don't play well together.

I have a DIY AWC using my X4. Aside from my pumps which I splurged a bit on because of the size of the tank, it is built on relatively cost effective Amazon purchases.

I started with a project workbox to house the pumps and hide a rats nest of cables. https://a.co/d/09VG8hXo. This is large because I used Kamoer stepper pumps and have the motors in the enclosure with head surface mounted. Depending on what you are using for pump or solenoid, you can probably find a smaller more cost effectibe workbox.

My pumps are powered by 24V stepper drivers. As are the PWM speed control and ball valves in another adjacent workbox. I have a single 24V power source for everything. The power source is a constant output always providing power, it's connected to a terminal block which fans out power to everything else. In between the terminal block and the pumps or valves, I have an optical relay module which switches power. The control side of the relay is 5V and powered by the Hydros 0-10V output. The terminal block is jumpered to the relay common and depending on the desired state of the pump or valve, is is then connected to the normally closed or normally open. I haven't done so yet but believe with both normally open and normally closed being available then I could also control a three-way valve.

Here are my components

Project Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C81L4TS8
Large because of my application. Pick another which suits your needs.

Terminal Block https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JTS8M2W

Relay Module

Panel Mount Connectors
The specific ones I purchased aren't presently available but you can find like elsewhere.
GX12 4-pin (input power to the terminal block)
GX12 3-pin (output power to ball valves)
GX12 6-pin (0-10V control from the X4)

GX12 Cables
GX12 3-pin (butt connected to ball valves)
GX12 6-pin (patched from X4 0-10V OUT to workbox relay module)

My power supply is a 24V Wave Engine power supply that was displaced when I went to Kraken. You can get any Amazon or Ali 24V power supply. Just get something large enough current to power all items at the same time. It doesn't need to be GX12. Just substitute the appropriate pannel mount connectors.

My tank is large so I went with Kamoer KKTS 1600ml pumps.
Kamoer KKTS-24S18 1600ml/min high... Kamoer KKTS-24S18 1600ml/min high Flow peristaltic Pump 24V Stepper Motor dosing Pump Adjustable Speed for lab Factory Industry: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Stepper Driver
I got four of these for less than the price of one Kamoer-branded driver

PWM Speed Control

You could easily use something else like solenoids. Just get the desired panel mount connectors and jumper the hot to the switching relay (also jumper switching relay common to terminal block) and ground to the terminal block. To neaten up the project box cabling a bit, I jumpered from the terminal block to C1, C1 to C2, C2 to C3 and C3 to C4.

The project box, terminal block, relay, power supply and cables are all relatively inexpensive and universal. With this basic setup, you can control solenoids, ball valves, pumps or most any other 24V DC device. Replace the power supply and you could use most anything between 12V and 30V DC.
 
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