BRS Titanium heater causing Ph probe interference

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Christian

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Hi all new to this forum and I’m having a problem maybe someone already has had and fixed. I have a Redsea nano xl with a Hydros launch running on it I have a ph probe, salinity and temperature. I recently replaced my crappy flu al glass water heater with a “higher end” bulk reef supply titanium water heater I have the probes on the first chamber where the ato+ is installed, the heater is in the middle chamber where the skimmer is at,and had no problems until after I switched heaters. After installing the brs heater my ph jumps anywhere from 1 to 1.8 up. I got a replacement thinking it was a faulty heater but replacement doing exactly the same anyone have a solution
 
Hi all new to this forum and I’m having a problem maybe someone already has had and fixed. I have a Redsea nano xl with a Hydros launch running on it I have a ph probe, salinity and temperature. I recently replaced my crappy flu al glass water heater with a “higher end” bulk reef supply titanium water heater I have the probes on the first chamber where the ato+ is installed, the heater is in the middle chamber where the skimmer is at,and had no problems until after I switched heaters. After installing the brs heater my ph jumps anywhere from 1 to 1.8 up. I got a replacement thinking it was a faulty heater but replacement doing exactly the same anyone have a solution

Try rerouting your pH probe cable so it isn't adjacent to the heater power cord.
 
I was able to isolate the issue, the problem is not interference caused by the heater but more so the heater or any titanium element in the water. As soon as I take the heater out the readings go back to normal, but if I put a titanium grounding probe inside the water the readings go crazy again, this does not sound normal could the probe be faulty?
 
The leak could be in another piece of equipment that is causing the issue and the heater or ground probe become the ground source for it. The best way I know would be to disconnect everything except the pH probe and ground probe and make sure the reading is ok. Then start hooking things back up one at a time until the problem starts. Then the last thing hooked up would be your cause or one of the causes. Unhook it again and then continue hooking the rest up one at a time until all except any causing the issue are hooked back up.
 
Unfortunately I don’t think you are going to be able to do anything about it. I have the same thing happen when I run my UV Sterilizer. I contacted support and was told there is nothing they can do. I have an Apex that I still use for DOS as I am moving over to Hydros. So I plugged the pH probe into the head unit and it worked just fine. So I think the probe port on the Hydros are not galvanically isolated and they easily pickup noise.
 
Unfortunately I don’t think you are going to be able to do anything about it. I have the same thing happen when I run my UV Sterilizer. I contacted support and was told there is nothing they can do. I have an Apex that I still use for DOS as I am moving over to Hydros. So I plugged the pH probe into the head unit and it worked just fine. So I think the probe port on the Hydros are not galvanically isolated and they easily pickup noise.
Hydros does have galvanic isolation on their pH ports. So the issue you have may be that you have power carrying cables too close to the sensor cables. In this case the pH cable. Signals can be magnetically coupled between cables. On a pH probe a millivolt of change can cause a large change in the reading. Make sure the cables for pH are separated from the other cables. To test if it is an issue with some piece of equipment in the water like your UV try placing the probe in a cup or other container with tank water isolated from the actual tank water with the UV on and see if it reads correctly.
 
This is easily fixed @Christian , no need to try and play the isolation game and has nothing to do with transient interference from nearby wires or how the Atlas Scientific pH module works.

The problem is the way power supply is setup for the Hydros controller, unfortunately the controllers ground, AC earth and tank water are isolated from one another, when you add the heater element it has the outside case connected to earth for safety. Unfortunately this means there is now an alternative path to "ground" (earth in this case) that changes the reference "ground" for the pH probe. This can be made worse from devices like Salinity and ORP probes as well one of the newest sources of interference being the conductivity sensor in roller mats use to detect the water level.

It can be easily remedied in a couple of ways, the simplest is to add a grounding probe to your sump somewhere near the pH probe (underwater obviously), and connect this grounding probe wire to the ground (negative) on the controller the pH probe is connected too (you can use any ground point on the controller, including a sense/sensor/IO/power port). Just remember to recalibrate you probes after connecting the ground reference.

This will resolve your problem assuming you don't have any devices with the L & N connected the wrong way around internally (like in some cheap usb charges). All saltwater tanks should have a grounding probe connected to the Earth on an AC socket for safety, you can also connect this same probe to your ground on your controller for simplicity.
 
I'm not the OP but I will try these ideas to see if I can fix my ph probe interference issues. I tried Danny's suggestion and isolated as much as I could from the power cable, and that did bring the interference down a bit but it still very off. I will try the grounding probe trick and see if that does anything and report back.
 
This is easily fixed @Christian , no need to try and play the isolation game and has nothing to do with transient interference from nearby wires or how the Atlas Scientific pH module works.

The problem is the way power supply is setup for the Hydros controller, unfortunately the controllers ground, AC earth and tank water are isolated from one another, when you add the heater element it has the outside case connected to earth for safety. Unfortunately this means there is now an alternative path to "ground" (earth in this case) that changes the reference "ground" for the pH probe. This can be made worse from devices like Salinity and ORP probes as well one of the newest sources of interference being the conductivity sensor in roller mats use to detect the water level.

It can be easily remedied in a couple of ways, the simplest is to add a grounding probe to your sump somewhere near the pH probe (underwater obviously), and connect this grounding probe wire to the ground (negative) on the controller the pH probe is connected too (you can use any ground point on the controller, including a sense/sensor/IO/power port). Just remember to recalibrate you probes after connecting the ground reference.

This will resolve your problem assuming you don't have any devices with the L & N connected the wrong way around internally (like in some cheap usb charges). All saltwater tanks should have a grounding probe connected to the Earth on an AC socket for safety, you can also connect this same probe to your ground on your controller for simplicity.
Grounding probe hooked up like you suggested fixed the problem immediately. Thanks for the help.
 
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