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If you are using the Hydros AWC regimen you want the return pump to run while it does the water change since that uses the same sensor as the ATO to refill so you want everything to run like it is normal. That means it will limit the amount of the water change each time. I do three water changes a day. A small amount each time. I use dosing pumps for ATO and AWC and the drain pump currently runs for 10 minutes each time but the pump has a flow rate of 60ml a minute so that would be 600ml each time. It is only a 42 gallon tank.
 
Danny said:
If you are using the Hydros AWC regimen you want the return pump to run while it does the water change since that uses the same sensor as the ATO to refill so you want everything to run like it is normal. That means it will limit the amount of the water change each time. I do three water changes a day. A small amount each time. I use dosing pumps for ATO and AWC and the drain pump currently runs for 10 minutes each time but the pump has a flow rate of 60ml a minute so that would be 600ml each time. It is only a 42 gallon tank.
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Yes I do understand all that. What I am saying is that I want to AWC to not come on if the return pump is stopped for some reason. That is why I added it to the dependency screen. I just need to know if I have it set right as “On if Off”. I think that right but wanted to double check. I originally had it “Off if On”.
 
Gary said:
Yes I do understand all that. What I am saying is that I want to AWC to not come on if the return pump is stopped for some reason. That is why I added it to the dependency screen. I just need to know if I have it set right as “On if Off”. I think that right but wanted to double check. I originally had it “Off if On”.
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If you want it off if the return pump is off then it would be off if off. If you set it to on if off and the return pump was turned off the the AWC would come on and stay on till the return came back on and I don't think that is what you want. the depends on is a forced stat dependent on the dependency mode and the output used as an input.
 
But off if off would be the AWC dependency output is off if the pump is off. Wouldn’t I want the AWC dependency output ON if the pump is off? If the AWC Dependency is an actual output I would think I would want that output to turn on which would then disable the AWC. Am I not h in sweats ding that right?
I’m not using the AWC output for the pump dependency because I already have that dryly up to turn off the AWC if the mixing station is on. So I have a separate output just called AWC Dependency that has 4 inputs but I also added the return pump under the “Depends On” section, if you follow me. If not I guess I can just test it by turn off the return pump and see what happens.
 
So you are not talking about the depends on on the AWC output but another output that you have named AWC dependency? If that is the case then it depends on how that output works. If when it is on the AWC will stop working then yes you would want that to be on if off.v

I do not actually stop the AWC outputs like that. I use relays and three other drive ports to drive those relays and when I want the specific pump off I turn on the output that drives the relay for that pump and it opens up the circuit between that pumps output and the pump causing it to go off. Then I get an alert for power out of range for that pump. That is more trouble than most people would do. Also it requires some wiring to be done.
 
Yes, sir that is exactly what I thought. I don’t know how/why I had it OFF when ON. So that answers it, thank you. You have a very complex system that I wouldn’t even attempt to approach. I am still just trying to get my head around basics!
Thanks again Danny, I appreciate it sir
 
Here’s a new one. Started cycling the tank with Dr Tim’s which is suppose to take about 8 days. I’m on day 12 with ammonia at .52 and nitrites on my Hannah ultra low test kit still showing 200 which it has been since the first day after putting ammonia in. I put the last ammonia dose in 4 days ago. Not sure what to do from here.
On a worse note, I was out of town the last 3 days and when I got back yesterday evening I found my digital thermometer/humidity device had fallen off the wall and into the sump. When I pulled it out there was what looked like a rust spot left on the bottom of the sump. I wiped it out with a paper towel. I am now afraid as to what metals may have leached into the system. Should I do an ICO test or change all the water and start the cycle all over? What do you think?
Can’t believe I only secured it to the wall above the sump with a strip of Velcro. Not smart.
 
I would at least send of an ICP sample for testing, but that does not look good.
 
After thinking long and hard I just decided to drain it completely and will refill and start over. I would kick myself if I got live stock in the tank and things went south and of course I would assume it’s because I didnt do this right to begin with. Hopefully no battery residue is settled in the substrate.
How do you recommend going about cycling the tank? Dr Tim’s didn’t work very well for me.
 
They do sell what they call live sand with the bacteria growing already. I used old dry rock and sand from a previous tank and I set it up to do an initial test and it started cycling so I just went with it. It was well over a month before I added the cleanup crew and about 3 weeks after that before adding any fish. It wasup and running a year before adding any coral. I think there are things that are suppose to shorten the time but I have never used them yet. I have another tank I can setup but I will need to build another stand and I am not sure if I will ever get around to that as many other projects that I need to do first.
 
Got the tank going again with 130 gallons of new salt water and now another problem. My Hydros Ph probe consistently has been showing roughly 8.15 and still does now with the new tank of water. However I have the new Hannah Marine Master test kit and it consistently shows 7.6-7.7, off by about .45 from the probe.
I had a spare Hydros Ph probe so I swapped it out with the old one (3 months old) this morning and got the same results, 8.15. I never calibrated the probes as I believe I read it was not necessary. Thoughts?
Another issue and I’m sure you will love this one. While I was swapping out the Ph probes the little bottle with preservative solution that covers the tip of the new Ph probe, I accidentally spilled 1/2 of the solution into the sump. I am not sure what the solution is made of but do you know if this is now another problem for the tank where I have to empty it yet again?
I tell you, this hobby has been nothing but a headache so far!
 
I am not sure what that stuff has in it but it has a pH around 4. Once the probe has been in the tank a couple of days or a week calibrate the controller to your probe. No two probe are identical nor are the controllers. Start with pH 7 since that is the offset, I then do pH4 and the pH10. I retry the probe back in pH7 if it is off I go through the calibration again.It usually takes me 2-3 times through to get it calibrated. Make sure and rinse and blow off the probe and dry the outside with a paper towel before placing it in each solution. Keep it in water do not let it dry out for kore than a few minutes. So even if it is not connected I would leave it in the tank water.
 
Gary said:
Got the tank going again with 130 gallons of new salt water and now another problem. My Hydros Ph probe consistently has been showing roughly 8.15 and still does now with the new tank of water. However I have the new Hannah Marine Master test kit and it consistently shows 7.6-7.7, off by about .45 from the probe.
I had a spare Hydros Ph probe so I swapped it out with the old one (3 months old) this morning and got the same results, 8.15. I never calibrated the probes as I believe I read it was not necessary. Thoughts?
Another issue and I’m sure you will love this one. While I was swapping out the Ph probes the little bottle with preservative solution that covers the tip of the new Ph probe, I accidentally spilled 1/2 of the solution into the sump. I am not sure what the solution is made of but do you know if this is now another problem for the tank where I have to empty it yet again?
I tell you, this hobby has been nothing but a headache so far!
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I looked it up and more than likely it was potassium chloride. Basically a salt substitute. If that was what it was then a small amount will not cause an issue. It is also an additive for raising potassium to the aquarium.
 
Hi Danny- just to follow up, the mfg American Mark e responded telling me it is a light acid solution with anti microbicrobials. They said it is not a problem and that they have had people drop 60ml of it into a 5 gallon tank with no problem so 4-5ml (1/2 the bottle) is no problem at all for 130 gallons. Just thought I would share that with you for reference.
 
Gary said:
Hi Danny- just to follow up, the mfg American Mark e responded telling me it is a light acid solution with anti microbicrobials. They said it is not a problem and that they have had people drop 60ml of it into a 5 gallon tank with no problem so 4-5ml (1/2 the bottle) is no problem at all for 130 gallons. Just thought I would share that with you for reference.
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Thanks for the update. Sounds good. I am sure it happens quite a bit. Sounds like they accounted for that possibly happening when they created the solution.
 
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