JeffB418
HYDROS Expert
This DIY tutorial shows you how to run some Jebao 24V pumps on a Kraken Force Port AND be able to take advantage of battery mode (12V). Note: this is a DIY method and please understand everything in this guide before attempting, failure to do so could damage your equipment. Coralvue, nor I, take any responsibility. Got it? Ok good, proceed.
Background: Many Jebao pumps and powerheads run off 24V and can be directly powered off a Hydros Kraken Force Port (24V) with currently available adapter cables. But if you are using a battery with the Kraken, Hydros will only provide 12V on a Force Port during loss of prime power (or also called Battery Mode). In this case, most Jebao pump controllers will not run on just 12V! Jebao pumps go into power failure mode at 12V and error out. This is just how Jebao pump controllers work. Do note that there are MANY pumps out there that will run on both 12V and 24V (and not go into power failure mode), these type of pumps just run at 50% of the speed when on 12V (these include Varios 2/4, Pulse 2/4 power heads, Maxspect Jump DC return pumps, Maxspect Jump Gyres, Ecotech MP10, and many more).
Theory: This DIY tutorial will show you how to use a DC booster to always generate 24V output for a Jebao pump regardless if the Force Port is in normal 24V mode or 12V battery backup mode.
Considerations: This adds an additional external device to power your item. Also you must be aware of power draw of your device, plus understand current draw at different input voltages. The device shown here can power MAX of 6A at 24V or 144W, but I highly recommend keeping your 24V device power draw under 90W otherwise you can get into issues with exceeding power limits elsewhere (see below in battery power considerations section). For example, most Jebao DCS return pumps are under 90W. Pumps between the DCS/DCP3000 and DCS/DCP10000 run at 80W max or less. The DCP15000 runs at 105W max at 24V. And the DCP18000 and above are 36V pumps anyways. So if you are using a 12000LPH or less Jebao pump, you are likely below 90W and not at any issue. But still read everything below.
Concept: In short, you will have a cable from your Kraken Force port, to the DC/DC booster, then to your 24V device. In this example we are powering a jebao pump controller.
Wiring:
- For wiring from the Force Port to the DC/DC Booster, use a standard Coralvue Force Cable (HYDROS Force Port 24v Adapter Cable)
- For the DC/DC Booster, I will show you how to add DC barrel connectors to it below. The input side of the DC booster will plug into the above Force Port Cable and the output side will go to your 24V device.
DC/DC Booster:
The DC booster I recommend is this unit: https://a.co/d/09kRWgT2 (note the DC/DC booster MUST have a wide input voltage range that includes both 12/24V)
Then buy 1x of these DC barrel pigtail cables for the Pump 24V side: Male DC barrel cables
Then buy 1x of these DC barrel pigtail cables for the Kraken 24V side: Female barrel cable
If you are not good at soldering, I highly recommend using these level wire nuts: Lever Wire Nuts
Using the above items, wire up the booster as follows, matching RED wires on the DC barrel cables to the POSITIVE (red or yellow) wires on the booster. Make sure to note that the input side DC barrel (FEMALE BARREL VERSION) connects to the yellow side, and output (MALE BARREL VERSION) to the red side. NOTE: since posting this, I have been told that the INPUT and OUTPUT colors VARY between models (and even units) and you MUST make sure which side is the input/output power based on the device you have. They should be marked on the unit you get which is in and out.
Final Connection Diagram:
Connect your devices as follows:
Power/Battery Mode Power Considerations:
Above I recommended to keep 24V devices under 90W just to avoid issues, but this section explains why.
Finally, something VERY important to understand is how power draw works for different source voltages. The output voltage will ALWAYS be the same regardless if you are using a force port in normal 24V mode, or battery 12V mode. Therefore the current draw on the force port itself WILL change based on the voltage mode (12V vs 24V).
For example, if you are running a 24V pump that is running at max power of 144W, that's 6A at 24V (Power/Voltage = Current). Which puts us below the max current limit for a Force Port (8A). That is fine. The issue is if you switch this Force Port on during battery mode, which is 12V. Using the calculation above again, 144W/12V = 12A (plus 0.5A for converter loss), this would cause the pump to pull over 12.5A at 12V, which is WAY beyond the limit for a Force Port (8A Max), plus beyond the 10A limit for the battery backup port. So be VERY aware of 24V vs 12V Battery current draw needs when using a booster!
How to get around this issue? A few ways:
1) Don't enable this port/device during battery mode at all. Avoid the 12V use case completely. But in that case... don't even use the booster really....
2) Run the pump at a lower speed all the time and keep the device power under 90W, this way on normal Force Port mode at 24V, you draw about 6A and on battery you draw about 8A on 12V. This avoids any over current issues completely.
Background: Many Jebao pumps and powerheads run off 24V and can be directly powered off a Hydros Kraken Force Port (24V) with currently available adapter cables. But if you are using a battery with the Kraken, Hydros will only provide 12V on a Force Port during loss of prime power (or also called Battery Mode). In this case, most Jebao pump controllers will not run on just 12V! Jebao pumps go into power failure mode at 12V and error out. This is just how Jebao pump controllers work. Do note that there are MANY pumps out there that will run on both 12V and 24V (and not go into power failure mode), these type of pumps just run at 50% of the speed when on 12V (these include Varios 2/4, Pulse 2/4 power heads, Maxspect Jump DC return pumps, Maxspect Jump Gyres, Ecotech MP10, and many more).
Theory: This DIY tutorial will show you how to use a DC booster to always generate 24V output for a Jebao pump regardless if the Force Port is in normal 24V mode or 12V battery backup mode.
Considerations: This adds an additional external device to power your item. Also you must be aware of power draw of your device, plus understand current draw at different input voltages. The device shown here can power MAX of 6A at 24V or 144W, but I highly recommend keeping your 24V device power draw under 90W otherwise you can get into issues with exceeding power limits elsewhere (see below in battery power considerations section). For example, most Jebao DCS return pumps are under 90W. Pumps between the DCS/DCP3000 and DCS/DCP10000 run at 80W max or less. The DCP15000 runs at 105W max at 24V. And the DCP18000 and above are 36V pumps anyways. So if you are using a 12000LPH or less Jebao pump, you are likely below 90W and not at any issue. But still read everything below.
Concept: In short, you will have a cable from your Kraken Force port, to the DC/DC booster, then to your 24V device. In this example we are powering a jebao pump controller.
Wiring:
- For wiring from the Force Port to the DC/DC Booster, use a standard Coralvue Force Cable (HYDROS Force Port 24v Adapter Cable)
- For the DC/DC Booster, I will show you how to add DC barrel connectors to it below. The input side of the DC booster will plug into the above Force Port Cable and the output side will go to your 24V device.
DC/DC Booster:
The DC booster I recommend is this unit: https://a.co/d/09kRWgT2 (note the DC/DC booster MUST have a wide input voltage range that includes both 12/24V)
Then buy 1x of these DC barrel pigtail cables for the Pump 24V side: Male DC barrel cables
Then buy 1x of these DC barrel pigtail cables for the Kraken 24V side: Female barrel cable
If you are not good at soldering, I highly recommend using these level wire nuts: Lever Wire Nuts
Using the above items, wire up the booster as follows, matching RED wires on the DC barrel cables to the POSITIVE (red or yellow) wires on the booster. Make sure to note that the input side DC barrel (FEMALE BARREL VERSION) connects to the yellow side, and output (MALE BARREL VERSION) to the red side. NOTE: since posting this, I have been told that the INPUT and OUTPUT colors VARY between models (and even units) and you MUST make sure which side is the input/output power based on the device you have. They should be marked on the unit you get which is in and out.
Final Connection Diagram:
Connect your devices as follows:
Power/Battery Mode Power Considerations:
Above I recommended to keep 24V devices under 90W just to avoid issues, but this section explains why.
Finally, something VERY important to understand is how power draw works for different source voltages. The output voltage will ALWAYS be the same regardless if you are using a force port in normal 24V mode, or battery 12V mode. Therefore the current draw on the force port itself WILL change based on the voltage mode (12V vs 24V).
For example, if you are running a 24V pump that is running at max power of 144W, that's 6A at 24V (Power/Voltage = Current). Which puts us below the max current limit for a Force Port (8A). That is fine. The issue is if you switch this Force Port on during battery mode, which is 12V. Using the calculation above again, 144W/12V = 12A (plus 0.5A for converter loss), this would cause the pump to pull over 12.5A at 12V, which is WAY beyond the limit for a Force Port (8A Max), plus beyond the 10A limit for the battery backup port. So be VERY aware of 24V vs 12V Battery current draw needs when using a booster!
How to get around this issue? A few ways:
1) Don't enable this port/device during battery mode at all. Avoid the 12V use case completely. But in that case... don't even use the booster really....
2) Run the pump at a lower speed all the time and keep the device power under 90W, this way on normal Force Port mode at 24V, you draw about 6A and on battery you draw about 8A on 12V. This avoids any over current issues completely.
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