How to control my RODI unit

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Trev1whittaker

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I would like to automate the process of filling my ATO container from the RODI unit. However, I’m struggling to determine what parts I need, and how I’d pull this off:

I think I need 2 optical sensors (to determine if the water level is low and high). I already have a float valve in the ATO container that’s connected to the RODI (so it doesn’t overflow).

I would need a solenoid (I think) that is connected to my RODI unit to allow/restrict water from my RODI unit.

Anything else I need?

I’ve attached pics of the controller which shows what drives I still have available, my actual RODI unit, and the ATO container (which apparently needs to be cleaned).

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I’m in the weeds on this.
 

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I control my RODI with the Hydros. I auto refill my DI reservoir and auto transfer to my fresh saltwater reservoir from the mix tank if the water is ready to use in the mix tank. Once the transfer is complete it refills the mix tank from the RODI. I was doing this before the firmware release with the RODI filter output type. I did convert the DI refill and mix tank refill to use this output since I currently do not have a flush valve or booster pump I am in the process of adding the flush valve and will post the setup differences once I do that. The link to my RODI setup in my build thread is here Hex Tank Build . It is on page 5 and starts at post #98. The updated settings using the RODI filter type start in post #111 on page 6.
 
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Wow! I read your post and I think I bit off more than I could chew trying this.

Thank you for commenting and linking your build thread. It definitely shows some incredible ingenuity and understanding of the Hydros ecosystem.
 
If you are doing just one container it will not be too bad since it will only take the use of one RODI Filter type output. I used float switches since they were already installed from when I was using the Archon to do it. You can use the water level sensors from Hydros. Mine did not get to where it is at in a short period of time. If your RODI does not have a flush valve or a booster pump then those two outputs on the RODI filter output can be left at none. My RODI did no come with a flush solenoid valve. It does have a manual valve that I plan on paralleling with a solenoid to do that. I am testing some settings out to see how it will work at the moment. I will be glad to answer any questions you might have also.
 
I do not think that I have a flush valve and I would prefer to avoid that complication at the moment.

Can you advise what parts I'd need to turn my RODI on/off automatically? I'd need 2 water level sensors and the open ports on the controller to accommodate their wires. Would I need a solenoid to be connected to the RODI somehow? Would that solenoid be the part that physically shuts on/off the RODI?

In my mind, I think that I'd like the water to hit the low level sensor, and then SOMEHOW, the RODI would run for 30 minutes or so. The high level sensor would guarantee the bin didn't overflow.

My struggle is that the current ATO bin only holds so much water. I'd like the peace of mind knowing that my ATO bin is full even if I cannot get home to manually turn on/off the RODI to fill the bin. Getting a larger bin isn't really an option.
 
Here is the settings for my DI reservoir refill output. I used the RODI Filter output type. The output is a drive port on one of the controllers in the garage where my RODI and DI reservoir are at. The tank is in a room 35ft away. The tubing for my ATO,AWC and dosing goes up through the attic to get to the tank. The pumps are also in the garage. The feed power safe range is set for the solenoid which is a Hydros solenoid. The feed output power notification is set to orange so if for some reason the power goes out of range I get a notification. The high level input is the DI full sensor which is in the DI reservoir and will show wet when the tank is full. That will shut off the output. The low level input is DI low which is near the bottom of the DI reservoir and when it shows dry that will start the solenoid and refill the DI reservoir. Mine is a 20 gallon Brute trash can. I have no start time or end time set for the output so it will run anytime the DI low sensor goes dry. I have the depends on set to an output that combines two leak detector inputs. The dependency mode is set to off if on. If there is a leak detected I don't want the RODI on. Enable advanced settings is set to on. Feed minimum off time is set for 5 minutes so it will not turn on again for at least 5 minutes. Feed minimum on time is set to 5 minutes so it will run at least that long. The maximum on time is set for 5 hours. It can take as long as 4.5 hours to dill the DI reservoir on mine. Feed run past max on time is set to off so if it stays on that long it will turn the output off. Feed notification level is set to orange so it will send me an alert if it stays on for 5 hours. The feed solenoid is between the DI output on the RODI filter and the DI reservoir. I also have a float valve on the the line inside the DI reservoir. So if it does not turn off the float valve will stop the flow.

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These should work with some changes to your on times and off times since you have a smaller reservoir. I do also have a solenoid on my input to the RODI. I had a leak that started about two weeks after changing the filters one time so this is turned on anytime any of the feed outputs I have setup come on and also will turn off if a leak is detected.
 
Danny said:
Here is the settings for my DI reservoir refill output. I used the RODI Filter output type. The output is a drive port on one of the controllers in the garage where my RODI and DI reservoir are at. The tank is in a room 35ft away. The tubing for my ATO,AWC and dosing goes up through the attic to get to the tank. The pumps are also in the garage. The feed power safe range is set for the solenoid which is a Hydros solenoid. The feed output power notification is set to orange so if for some reason the power goes out of range I get a notification. The high level input is the DI full sensor which is in the DI reservoir and will show wet when the tank is full. That will shut off the output. The low level input is DI low which is near the bottom of the DI reservoir and when it shows dry that will start the solenoid and refill the DI reservoir. Mine is a 20 gallon Brute trash can. I have no start time or end time set for the output so it will run anytime the DI low sensor goes dry. I have the depends on set to an output that combines two leak detector inputs. The dependency mode is set to off if on. If there is a leak detected I don't want the RODI on. Enable advanced settings is set to on. Feed minimum off time is set for 5 minutes so it will not turn on again for at least 5 minutes. Feed minimum on time is set to 5 minutes so it will run at least that long. The maximum on time is set for 5 hours. It can take as long as 4.5 hours to dill the DI reservoir on mine. Feed run past max on time is set to off so if it stays on that long it will turn the output off. Feed notification level is set to orange so it will send me an alert if it stays on for 5 hours. The feed solenoid is between the DI output on the RODI filter and the DI reservoir. I also have a float valve on the the line inside the DI reservoir. So if it does not turn off the float valve will stop the flow.

View attachment 2814
View attachment 2815

These should work with some changes to your on times and off times since you have a smaller reservoir. I do also have a solenoid on my input to the RODI. I had a leak that started about two weeks after changing the filters one time so this is turned on anytime any of the feed outputs I have setup come on and also will turn off if a leak is detected.
Click to expand...

I think this will be really helpful. I’m out of town again but will order the appropriate parts and try to get it hooked up this coming weekend.

Would you agree that I likely only need the 1 solenoid and 1 (low level) sensor to make this work? Sounds like the solenoid would allow or restrict the water. The low sensor would alert it that I’m low, and my current float valve would tell the solenoid it’s full.

Are pumps a prerequisite for solenoids to work? I just let water pressure build to send the water from my RODI unit to the storage bin.
 
You will need a full sensor also since it will not turn off without it without timing out and that will send an alert. I sue the float valve as a backup if something goes wrong with the full sensor. The Max on time is also a backup. If that all fails then there is the leak detector that will cath it after it overfills. So far ai have not had any failures.
 
Danny said:
You will need a full sensor also since it will not turn off without it without timing out and that will send an alert. I sue the float valve as a backup if something goes wrong with the full sensor. The Max on time is also a backup. If that all fails then there is the leak detector that will cath it after it overfills. So far ai have not had any failures.
Click to expand...

So I need 2 sensors and 1 solenoid for what I want to do? I’ve attached an image to make sure I’m ordering the fight one.
 

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Yes those water level sensors will work. They will show wet or dry once you have the inputs setup for them. Does you RODI have an ASOV valve? If you are only filling one container with the RODI then one should work. If you are not sure on the ASOV valve you may want to put tue solenoid on the RODI input. If it has an ASOV valve you can put it in either place. I would also add a manual valve inline with the solenoid Like I have these. The two on the left are Hydros solenoids. There is a water flow direction so make sure it is installed for the right water flow.

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@Danny & @Carlos, I’ve bought/received everything I think I need to make this work now. However, if my RODI unit is 30 feet from my X4 Controller, will I need another controller at the RODI unit to connect the 2 solenoids since they use drive ports and longer drive ports cords aren’t made that would extend that far. Correct?

I guess another way to ask: is an extension cord available to use between the Solenoid’s drive port and the controller’s drive ports?

I fear this project got exponentially more expensive. :-(
 
For that distance I would get a data only command buss cable and get a controller for the RODI location. Mine is in my garage which is also where my reservoirs are at. I have 5 controllers there but I also control my pumps and the reservoirs with the controllers. If all you want to do is RODI and it is filling one reservoir only you can even use a X2 with a power pack since it has 2 drive ports for solenoids and 2 sense ports for the reservoir low level and full level. You would not have to connect it in a collective for just controlling the RODI. If you do decide to expand at that location then you might want to use a data only command buss cable and a couple of terminators and create a collective between the locations. If you buy the X2 and power pack as separate items then get one with a built in terminator.
 
I was really hoping longer cables was an option.

Not only is buying another controller expensive, but then creates the issue of getting internet to it.
 
Will BNC cables work to connect the solenoid on one end and to the drive port on the controller? Any other parts I’d need to pull this off other than a power source for the booster pump?


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The drive port is a GX12 2 pin connector. Not sure how a BNC will work? The controller is wifi. I get wifi all through my house and and all the way to the street.
 
Danny, could you provide a link for this “data buss cable” that would be around 50 feet? Will that cable negate the requirement for the Controller 2 to need internet since it’s connected to the Controller 4?

I think that’ll be my path of least resistance: buy a Controller 2, get the cable and connect it between the new Controller 2 and my current controller, and then I’ll be set.
 
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