Hydros fan control for cooling?

[IPT]

My tank temp rises about 2 degrees everyday with the lights on. I'd like to reduce that. I do have a canopy with T5's and LEDs. it's a standard 120 so 4'x2'. There is a large 8 inch open slot open the full length of the canopy to allow heat to rise. I obviously need to force out more hot air and figure that's the best bet via blowing cool air into the canopy vs air over the surface of the sump. I figure I can mount 2 4" fans to blow into the space from one end forcing air to rise and blow out along the top and other end.

There seems to be plenty of 12v fans that are Ip67 rated and I bought a 12v Drive port power cable for my Hydros launch and some 2.1mm barrel connectors to connect it to the fan wires.

Ideally I would run two fans at once and (?) use the 0-10V to regulate the fan speed based on tank temperature. Ie, at 77.5 the fans run at 35%, if it gets to 78.2 ramp up to 70% and if it goes over 79 fans go to 100%. Is this configuration possible?

A second option of course would be two fans, one each to it’s own drive port. One would be set to kick on (at 100% power I guess) at say 78.2 and if the tank hits 79 degrees the other would kick on too. I’d prefer option one because I think the gradation would be smoother and there would generally be less noise with any fan running at less than 100% more often than not.

I need some guidance, thought and input on how to set this up.

 

[Danny]

I drive both my fans from one drive port and use the chiller output type to control that port.

 

[IPT]

I drive both my fans from one drive port and use the chiller output type to control that port.

Is that set up as an on/off type situation? Do you have one come on at one temp and another at a higher temp or can you/do you modulate fan speed there?

I'd like run the Coolerguys 140mm fan with 211 CFM but I'm sure it wouln't need that amount of power all the time and I'd rather have it ramp up and down as needed vs blast on dropping temps fast only to turn back on again shortly later going on and off again and again.

I've seen the Propeller control 2.1 (Controller for aquarium fan Speed regulation with ProfiLux, suitable for PropellerBreeze with socket/plug 2.1mm) and wonder if somehow that can work in the Hydos system to regulate fan speeds.

 

[Danny]

Is that set up as an on/off type situation? Do you have one come on at one temp and another at a higher temp or can you/do you modulate fan speed there?

I'd like run the Coolerguys 140mm fan with 211 CFM but I'm sure it wouln't need that amount of power all the time and I'd rather have it ramp up and down as needed vs blast on dropping temps fast only to turn back on again shortly later going on and off again and again.

I've seen the Propeller control 2.1 (Controller for aquarium fan Speed regulation with ProfiLux, suitable for PropellerBreeze with socket/plug 2.1mm) and wonder if somehow that can work in the Hydos system to regulate fan speeds.

Since I have both fans connected to the same drive port they both come on and off at the same time. It is either on or off. Below are my settings for the output.

 

[IPT]

I found this for the Profilux, but it uses a simple 0-10V output. Can this be configured in the Hydros using the Propeller Breeze?

How to: Control Propeller Breeze fan via ProfiLux - GHL Advanced Technology

www.aquariumcomputer.com

 

[IPT]

I'm surprised no one has used the Hydros 0-10V function to control fan speeds. Is it not possible or am I just not posting in the right area?

 

[johnadouglas]

I would imagine that *would* work with testing etc - and I plan on exploring it when my current list of aquarium projects gets shorter...

For my sumps I chose to go with simple On/Off based on temperature *however* I did not want the fans running at 100% (too loud) so I bought some of these to at least control the speed of the fans when they are on 4 Pin 12V PWM Fan Controller.

 

[IPT]

I would imagine that *would* work with testing etc - and I plan on exploring it when my current list of aquarium projects gets shorter...

For my sumps I chose to go with simple On/Off based on temperature *however* I did not want the fans running at 100% (too loud) so I bought some of these to at least control the speed of the fans when they are on 4 Pin 12V PWM Fan Controller.

Interesting. So you just control the speed manually with the dial? What "4pin" fans did you use? I'm used to seeing 2 pins for power and sometimes 3 pins for speed control. Haven't seen a 4 pin (except maybe in a computer?).

 

[Danny]

Interesting. So you just control the speed manually with the dial? What "4pin" fans did you use? I'm used to seeing 2 pins for power and sometimes 3 pins for speed control. Haven't seen a 4 pin (except maybe in a computer?).

I think the connecter can support 4 pins but the fans usually have 3 wires.

 

[johnadouglas]

Apologies I should have been mode descriptive/explicit. You are correct - I went with computer fans with 4 pins: Noctua NF-F12 iPPC-2000 IP67 PWM,... They are IP67 as you can see, they’re very quiet (everything is relative) and they come in different sizes depending in my case on Sump openings at the back. I used zip ties to hold two side by side by the corners until I have time to fabricate a flange/what have you to keep them in place better. I was monitoring my sump water temp for more than a year (2 tanks, a 350L and a 200L) and I never liked the fact that the DT was +- 0.2/0.3 but the sump would hold temp higher (+0.6-0.8) and swing more especially when the Refugium lights were on or in the smaller tank. Once I put these in I adjusted the dial as low as possible to achieve the same temperature variation as in the DT. Once in a while it’s off but not by much.

 

[Danny]

This is my cooling fans. The are cooler guys fans and are also IP67 rated. The bracket goes over the sump above the bubble trap. I have 2 other fans for ventilation of the stand and canopy. The second photo is the sump outside the stand with everything in place including the fan. It was taken before the tank was up and running. It had a different brand of fans then but I had to replace them after a while.

 

[Munaz]

My tank temp rises about 2 degrees everyday with the lights on. I'd like to reduce that. I do have a canopy with T5's and LEDs. it's a standard 120 so 4'x2'. There is a large 8 inch open slot open the full length of the canopy to allow heat to rise. I obviously need to force out more hot air and figure that's the best bet via blowing cool air into the canopy vs air over the surface of the sump. I figure I can mount 2 4" fans to blow into the space from one end forcing air to rise and blow out along the top and other end.

There seems to be plenty of 12v fans that are Ip67 rated and I bought a 12v Drive port power cable for my Hydros launch and some 2.1mm barrel connectors to connect it to the fan wires.

Ideally I would run two fans at once and (?) use the 0-10V to regulate the fan speed based on tank temperature. Ie, at 77.5 the fans run at 35%, if it gets to 78.2 ramp up to 70% and if it goes over 79 fans go to 100%. Is this configuration possible?

A second option of course would be two fans, one each to it’s own drive port. One would be set to kick on (at 100% power I guess) at say 78.2 and if the tank hits 79 degrees the other would kick on too. I’d prefer option one because I think the gradation would be smoother and there would generally be less noise with any fan running at less than 100% more often than not.

I need some guidance, thought and input on how to set this up.

From what I have seen and tested, HYDROS does not do true variable fan speed the way a PWM controller does. The 0–10V port is meant for devices that explicitly accept analog 0–10V control, and most 12V DC fans do not respond to that signal directly. With HYDROS, drive ports are basically on or off, so the chiller output works well but it will not ramp speed.

If you want smooth and quiet operation, the practical setup is on off control from HYDROS combined with an external PWM or voltage controller to cap the fan speed. That gives you temperature based automation without the fans blasting at full power all the time.