Sicce SDC 7.0 Pump connection to Kraken Force Port 24v

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Hello!
Yes, I bought two Force port cables thinking I could plug-n-play with both of my Sicce sdc 7 return pumps. The 16 connectors should be here by the weekend. Hopefully, I can get these up & running? Do you happen to what guage of wire is required for the jumpers, or will anything do?
 
14 gauge or larger for 24v should work. FYI, those screws are very small and some are VERY tight. I also connected my ReefMat to the Kraken, but that was with a drive port - 12v. Those used a M11 or 12 connector....can't remember off the top of my head.
 
Hi Richard, per 6DM, here is the screenshot.

So I'm looking on Amazon for the 2.1mm barrel connectors. I want male type, yes? I am looking for 24V barrel connectors but it seems they only have 12V. I though all of these SDC 7.0 pumps are 24V.

Would these work?

 

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The red line is where I want to cut the Sicce pump power cord, correct? Between the T that adds the controller into the power cord and the power brick?
 
Hello!
Yes, I bought two Force port cables thinking I could plug-n-play with both of my Sicce sdc 7 return pumps. The 16 connectors should be here by the weekend. Hopefully, I can get these up & running? Do you happen to what guage of wire is required for the jumpers, or will anything do?
since I can't do this in DMs....

1742471737751.png

you could cut anywhere in the highlighted area. Then splice that to a barrel to connect to Force port. That or wait for your M16 connector to come in and wire that.
 
since I can't do this in DMs....

View attachment 5030

you could cut anywhere in the highlighted area. Then splice that to a barrel to connect to Force port. That or wait for your M16 connector to come in and wire that.
Yes, that is exactly the spot I had figured, somewhere in that stretch of cable.

OK, I'm on the right track.

One final question, will the barrel connectors in this link Amazon.com work for this? If so, I'll probably go that route instead of M16 connectors. I can use some heat shrinks & a hair dryer to seal up the splices. I can get these barrel connectors delivered today & get this done this weekend!

Thank you!
Ken
 
Yep, that should work. Also, you can use those connectors for the M16 head. You have options!

Going the M16 "custom connector route may be the more "elegant" route, but that means doing some jumpers and working with the small screws. It will work.

Like I said, you have options. Since you are getting the M16 head and the barrels, perhaps you can give that a shot first. You can cut some wire from those barrel connector cables to use a jumpers. That way, if it works out, you still have your power brick in tact. Not that simply reconnecting would be an issue. Just sharing the experience.

Feel free to reach out!
 
For the Siccce Syncra SDC 7.0 I read this thread and the pin out thread. Just wanted to confirm the pinout for 24v power, 1/2 tied together for ground, and 3/4 tied together for 24vdc power. The notch is on the right side in the picture below?

1742823487321.png
 
For the Siccce Syncra SDC 7.0 I read this thread and the pin out thread. Just wanted to confirm the pinout for 24v power, 1/2 tied together for ground, and 3/4 tied together for 24vdc power. The notch is on the right side in the picture below?

View attachment 5038
What confuses me is that compared to the power supply pinout.

1000009602.jpg
 
Yes, that is exactly the spot I had figured, somewhere in that stretch of cable.

OK, I'm on the right track.

One final question, will the barrel connectors in this link Amazon.com work for this? If so, I'll probably go that route instead of M16 connectors. I can use some heat shrinks & a hair dryer to seal up the splices. I can get these barrel connectors delivered today & get this done this weekend!

Thank you!
Ken
Ken, did you get it working?
 
Not yet. I have all the parts. I decided to try to make the pigtail instead of cutting the wire between the connector & power brick. I cannot even see the screw heads on the connectors. My wife is going to need to do those 😊
 
The wife & I tried this mod last night for about 2hrs & failed miserably. The screw connectors on the M16 connector & the wires themselves are just too small for us to see & work with. We can't strip the wires & get them & the jumper wires into those tiny holes with the tiny screws situated properly & to my satisfaction.

I think I'm back to just cutting the wire leading to the power brick, splicing together & then using heat shrink tubing. I just hate not having the option of going back to the brick if ever needed.

Whats the worst that could happen if the M16 connector is wired wrong & I plug it in to Kraken? Will it destroy the Kraken? The pump? Both? Cause a fire or just trip a breaker? Or nothing, it just won't work?
 
The wife & I tried this mod last night for about 2hrs & failed miserably. The screw connectors on the M16 connector & the wires themselves are just too small for us to see & work with. We can't strip the wires & get them & the jumper wires into those tiny holes with the tiny screws situated properly & to my satisfaction.

I think I'm back to just cutting the wire leading to the power brick, splicing together & then using heat shrink tubing. I just hate not having the option of going back to the brick if ever needed.

Whats the worst that could happen if the M16 connector is wired wrong & I plug it in to Kraken? Will it destroy the Kraken? The pump? Both? Cause a fire or just trip a breaker? Or nothing, it just won't work?
Yep, I understand....very small to work with.

As far as the not going back to the brick, well, you can. Just connect back and use the heat shrink tubing.

Worse case. Well, @Danny may have to back me up on this, but it "shouldn't" destroy the Kraken nor the pump. It just won't work. I don't want to lead you down the wrong path. If I remember correctly, I had some issues on my first attempt and nothing happened (nor worked). I just rewired and all was good.

If you wish, you can send to me and I can see about wiring it up for you. That's provided I can get the screws loose. I have done it on 4 pumps in my system - Two Red Sea ReefRun 7000, One Red Sea ReefRun 5500, and the RSK300 DC pump.

Not sure of your timeline. I'm sure at this point you are ready to move on.
 
Yep, I understand....very small to work with.

As far as the not going back to the brick, well, you can. Just connect back and use the heat shrink tubing.

Worse case. Well, @Danny may have to back me up on this, but it "shouldn't" destroy the Kraken nor the pump. It just won't work. I don't want to lead you down the wrong path. If I remember correctly, I had some issues on my first attempt and nothing happened (nor worked). I just rewired and all was good.

If you wish, you can send to me and I can see about wiring it up for you. That's provided I can get the screws loose. I have done it on 4 pumps in my system - Two Red Sea ReefRun 7000, One Red Sea ReefRun 5500, and the RSK300 DC pump.

Not sure of your timeline. I'm sure at this point you are ready to move on.
Thank you very much for that offer! I may take you up on it! I have another avenue to try, let me see how that pans out. If it doesn't, I'll definitely take you up on that.
Thank you very much!
 
OK, I have a buddy coming over tomorrow to help with this.

To review, I cut the barrel connector off of a 24V Force Port cable & wire it per the Kraken pinout posted here. I can cut a bit extra of the force port cable to make the jumpers, correct?

This may be a dumb question, but the black wire from the FP cable goes to pin 1 & the red wire from FP cable goes to pin 3. Then the black jumper goes from pin 1 to pin 2, and the red jumper goes from pin 3 to pin 4. All of this with the notch on the connector on the right side as I'm looking at the connector, just as the pinout diagram posted. I just want to make sure I'm doing this correctly. I was a tile & marble contractor all my life which is obviously far from anything resembling an electrician. 😊
 

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