Triple sensor vs water level sensor?

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pblogic

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Hi!

I'm pretty new to Hydros and setting up a system. I've got components on the way, the ATO being part of the package. I wanted to add a second water level sensor as a backup to prevent spills and I see that the triple sensor and the other optical sensor are the same price. Is there a reason to choose one over the other at the same price?

Thanks
 
Hi!

I'm pretty new to Hydros and setting up a system. I've got components on the way, the ATO being part of the package. I wanted to add a second water level sensor as a backup to prevent spills and I see that the triple sensor and the other optical sensor are the same price. Is there a reason to choose one over the other at the same price?

Thanks

The triple sensor provides a failsafe. In the event it malfunctions at the full point there is a secondary overflow point about ~2mm above which will trigger an overflow notification and also turn on/off outputs based on programming. If the level in your return chamber varies more than that ~2mm due to fleece roller or simple turbulance, you may want to disable overflow notification or go with the other sensor.

If you were using sensor as a low level triggering something like a rodi reservoir to fill then regular optical sensor would be better selection. Also if there was something forcing you to mount the sensor in a "unique" manner the regular sensor would be a better choice. You'll see unpredictable behaviors if the triple sensor is not mounted wet at bottom, overflow at top with sensors near horizontal. Aside from these small caveats, it is pretty much personal preference.
 
The triple sensor provides a failsafe. In the event it malfunctions at the full point there is a secondary overflow point about ~2mm above which will trigger an overflow notification and also turn on/off outputs based on programming. If the level in your return chamber varies more than that ~2mm due to fleece roller or simple turbulance, you may want to disable overflow notification or go with the other sensor.

If you were using sensor as a low level triggering something like a rodi reservoir to fill then regular optical sensor would be better selection. Also if there was something forcing you to mount the sensor in a "unique" manner the regular sensor would be a better choice. You'll see unpredictable behaviors if the triple sensor is not mounted wet at bottom, overflow at top with sensors near horizontal. Aside from these small caveats, it is pretty much personal preference.
I see. So I could use either sensor with the auto top off, with just one sensor, or I could use two sensors as extra redundancy.

So if I wanted to do so, I could simply order the triple sensor and swap it out for the sensor that comes with the ATO kit? My application is in the small return chamber of the Eshopps Deskmate Florida which is 2.67" x 3". I'm just trying to do my best to avoid over fills which is why I was considering two water level sensors. The one that comes with the ATO in addition to another as a backup, but perhaps the triple level by itself is good enough?

As I said, I'm new to Hydros. I was looking at heaters and ATO's and could not find even high end options that did not have many failure horror stories. I then realized that a basic Hydros setup was about the same price as a high end ATO and a high end heater, so it just seemed like a no brainer to go with a controller. I'm sure I'll expand later but right now my main use is for ATO and heater safety on this little 10 gallon.
 
I see. So I could use either sensor with the auto top off, with just one sensor, or I could use two sensors as extra redundancy.

So if I wanted to do so, I could simply order the triple sensor and swap it out for the sensor that comes with the ATO kit? My application is in the small return chamber of the Eshopps Deskmate Florida which is 2.67" x 3". I'm just trying to do my best to avoid over fills which is why I was considering two water level sensors. The one that comes with the ATO in addition to another as a backup, but perhaps the triple level by itself is good enough?

As I said, I'm new to Hydros. I was looking at heaters and ATO's and could not find even high end options that did not have many failure horror stories. I then realized that a basic Hydros setup was about the same price as a high end ATO and a high end heater, so it just seemed like a no brainer to go with a controller. I'm sure I'll expand later but right now my main use is for ATO and heater safety on this little 10 gallon.
On heaters always have a backup to turn it off. I use my Hydros to control my heaters but the heaters have an internal thermostat that I set about 3 degrees higher than the Hydros.I have 2 heaters and they are each on their own XP8 outlet which also has power monitoring so if the internal heater thermostat turns on a heater when the Hydros has it on it will send an alert.
 
On heaters always have a backup to turn it off. I use my Hydros to control my heaters but the heaters have an internal thermostat that I set about 3 degrees higher than the Hydros.I have 2 heaters and they are each on their own XP8 outlet which also has power monitoring so if the internal heater thermostat turns on a heater when the Hydros has it on it will send an alert.
That is my plan. The little heater I have has it's own controller but I'm going to plug it into a hydros controlled outlet as a backup, to shut it off it it over heats.
 
I go one step further with heaters and have Ranco control heaters.

This will work with something like Eheim Jager (set to something few degrees above what you need) or titanium ones.

Then Ranco is plugged into XP8 and can be controlled further by Hydros and its temperature sensors or other rules.

I actually just bought another set for my in the works tank, here are the parts if interested

Ranco itself - Amazon.com
Some sort of extension cord to wire it, this will give 3 outlets for heaters - Amazon.com
A way to water proof the probe (haven't used this specific solution before, but should work) - Amazon.com

For ATO if your setup allows, I always just used gravity fed into the sump with a float valve (I use stuff like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088WKWSSD, but many options available). Mounted properly this really should not break, but of course all this do eventually, so can add a solenoid to the RO line and use a high water level sensor in the sump to close the line if needed. Hydros has normally closed one, which maybe not the best choice as you will want it mostly open, but should work either way. I am planning to add one to my next setup. Will see how it likes being powered 24/7 :")
 
And this is how ATO / AWC is setup in my freshwater with one of those valves and gravity fed line. Since it's freshwater AWC is a bit simpler here and that's what the two water sensors are for. For draining the tiny Hydros pump is used, then gravity fed water line refills things slowly over an hour or so.

20240130_111709.jpg
 
I go one step further with heaters and have Ranco control heaters.

This will work with something like Eheim Jager (set to something few degrees above what you need) or titanium ones.

Then Ranco is plugged into XP8 and can be controlled further by Hydros and its temperature sensors or other rules.

I actually just bought another set for my in the works tank, here are the parts if interested

Ranco itself - Amazon.com
Some sort of extension cord to wire it, this will give 3 outlets for heaters - Amazon.com
A way to water proof the probe (haven't used this specific solution before, but should work) - Amazon.com

For ATO if your setup allows, I always just used gravity fed into the sump with a float valve (I use stuff like this Amazon.com, but many options available). Mounted properly this really should not break, but of course all this do eventually, so can add a solenoid to the RO line and use a high water level sensor in the sump to close the line if needed. Hydros has normally closed one, which maybe not the best choice as you will want it mostly open, but should work either way. I am planning to add one to my next setup. Will see how it likes being powered 24/7 :")
Thanks!

I don't have a sump, this is for a 9 gallon nano dekstop aquarium AIO, so space is limited and a float wouldn't fit anywhere.
 
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