Wifi Input Devices

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oRi0n

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In trying to plan out my system, the more I think about this thing, the more obvious it becomes that one of the biggest advantages (wifi and modularization) is in many ways a mirage (nearly everything is cord-limited). Having wifi power strips, wifi auto feeders, and wifi smart outlets (for power monitoring) is a big advantage, but that's almost negated by the fact that all the inputs (other than power monitoring) still require a cord.

So yes, I can put a controllable outlet almost anywhere in the house for $25-40, but I still need a control module there if I want to do much of anything other than turn on lights or fans. And since the Control 2 and Control XS (as far as I can tell) don't even come with a $20 power cord, you're basically at $180 plus the cost of a probe to do any kind of remote sensing (at which point you might as well buy the $200 starter pack to get a power strip and temperature probe). I just seems like the incremental cost when you only need to add 1 or 2 things (especially if it's a pH probe) is really high compared to the balance of the system.

How about a wifi leak detector? That could be super handy if your RO filter is in another room and you don't need any other controls associated with it, even if the wifi adder is $25-$50. Or you could have a wifi TDS sensor as well (or any other sensor for that matter). But the easier way to approach this would be selling individual wifi sense ports in the $25-$50 range. Maybe even wifi probe ports for $80-$100. That would facilitate remote inputs without having to design a wifi version of every sensing device.

Accessories are obviously both a selling point for the ecosystem and a big part of the profit structure. If an additional control XS costs $170-$180 (powered) to add 4 accessories, and I only need to add 1 at the moment, I'm a lot more likely to pick up that next accessory for a wifi premium instead.

Taking this one step further, how about a quarantine tank module? Something in the $100 range that has a power monitored outlet (filter pump), 2-3 simple on/off outlets (heater and light), and a single sense port (temperature probe). Maybe a usb port for a fan. That would suit not only a quarantine tank, but would work quite well for all the simple nano tanks, freshwater tanks, etc. we all end up with scattered around the various corners of the house. Right now the cheapest way to set up a single simple remote tank with monitoring/control (no auto-top-offs or auto-dosing going on where you're worried about overflows) would be the $25 smart plug (monitor filter), the $50 wifi inkbird for heater safety, and an additional $25 smart plug or $40 power block if you need to monitor/control lights though the app. It would be so much better to have all that integrated with hydros, but you currently pay double the cost to get your heater notifications from hydros rather than inkbird. Also much easier than trying to sell the wife on $200+ to monitor the "cheap" tanks.

Some of this may well already be on the to-do list, and I totally understand taking time to develop things so they work well. I just haven't seen any of this talked about, and it seems like such an obvious use case when robust wireless control infrastructure is already built into the ecosystem.
 
You do realize there is a 8 wifi unit limit to the system. You can have up to 8 wifi devices in a collective or 8 per individual control unit if they are not in a collective.
 
Correct... but to do the collective you have to connect everything via command bus, so currently the only things you are doing via wifi are outlets and a feeder. Maybe a pump. But 8 is a lot of wifi options. If you're building a large system you can buy another control unit and break it out - but I think very few people are going to hit that 8 limit and not have more than 2 controllers already. You only need 2 in a collective to get redundancy. Adding others is only necessary if you need to directly control from an input on one controller to an output that would otherwise be associated with another. I think most everyone will have at least 1-2 wifi slots available that would make a ton of sense if you just need to add 1 or 2 things.
 
With my Archon I had 7 PC4's connected to it. That would be same as 7 wifi power strips. I still have 2 PC4's on the Archon. I have 4 WiFi strips and a fish feeder. That is 5 wifi devices with one tank. I also have 7 control units in a collective. 3 at the tank and 4 more in the garage 35ft from the tank. I am still not completely controlling everything from the Hydros yet. I still have the lighting and one leak detector on the Archon. I still have a second tank that I eventually want to setup.
 
Wow that is a LOT of stuff. But the point still stands - if you have items you don't specifically need to control from (just things you want to send you an alert, or outputs like lights that aren't going to change based on anything else) you can probably break some of it out into a second collective and double the number of useful wifi points. I assume you have a quarantine and/or frag rack in the garage? I don't have the funds available to set up a fully automated system that elaborate. I'm mostly just concerned with the things that will crash my tank if I lose control of them (mainly loss of filtration, temperature shock, pH shock, leaks).
 
I got a little at a time over the last few months so the cost has been spread out. I don't have any tanks setup in the garage. It is not heated or cooled. I just have my RODI unit and three storage tanks out there, but there are 4 Control units out there along with 2 wifi strips. I use the 6 drive ports on three of the control units to control the ATO, AWC, dosing pumps and solenoid valves. I don't trust wifi with these. I intend on getting the power outlets that are connected with a buss cable when they become available. When that happens I may be able to move some of the control units around since I won't need all the drive ports in the garage.
 
That makes sense - I wasn't thinking about an awc. If I end up needing that at some point, I will have to find a cheaper way to do it. And I get your trust issues - frankly, I'm not sure I trust anything to automatically open and close water from my tap that could possibly go somewhere that can't just overflow to a drain (although I guess the freezer does that to make ice).
 
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