wifi plug: what happens when it goes offline

[TragicDog]

Hey all, haven't bought the control4 yet, still working on the wife.

Anyways, I'm wanting to do a remote (4' up wall from garage, 30' through garage/ceiling, 8' down into sump) ATO reservoir to "remove the bucket next to the tank". Anyways was thinking a wifi plug would work for the pump with the sensors in the tank, and maybe a solenoid at the sump just incase.

My question is, what happens when it goes offline? Does it continue to run on a 'schedule' just do nothing, or stick with the last known config. ie if it drops off wifi while on it stays on, or if it's off it stays off. I work in IT it's never a question of if, but when.

I had a thought of running a data only cable between a Control4 in the sump, and a Control2 in the garage at the water station, but that might be phase 2 due to cost overruns.

Long term I want to do an AWC system, so I'll be running cable and ROtubing in the next few weeks, but that's down the road.

My other thought was can I extend a drive cable 50'? and would the micro pump push water that far.

 

[Danny]

Not sure about the micro pump doing this but these will do it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...d_p=5ae2c7f8-e0c6-4f35-9071-dc3240e894a8&th=1
I have three of these in my garage and the tank is in the bedroom which is 35ft from the garage. I use one for ATO and the other two are auto water change. My tubing does go up through the attic and down the wall to the tank. I also have the tubing ran in conduit that is insulated to keep it from freezing. I use the drive ports to run the pumps but I have a Control 4 and Control 2 in the garage with them. The fill and drain pump for auto water change are both powered by the same drive port. The drain pump is in the garage and still draws water from the refugium section of the sump up through the wall accross the attic and down into the garage to the pump. The pump output goes through a check valve up through the attic down a wall and empties into the drain for the kitchen sink. So these pumps should have no issue doing what you want to do. The pumps are in the lower right corner of the photo below. Not sure if the Drive port will drive from that far away but you could probably drive a relay and then the pump with a relay if not. They only draw about 120ma each when running so it might be possible to do It form that far away.

 

[JeffB418]

The wifi plug will stay in the last configuration it was sent if your router goes down between your Control 4 and the wifi outlet. The Control 4 will still operate as normal locally.

I did exactly what you are speaking of, I have a RODI tank in my basement but I didn't want to run a separate Hydros controller in the basement yet. So this is what I did with a Control 2 on a display in my livingroom:
1) installed the Control 2 on my display upstairs, installed an optical water level sensor in the display
2) used a single outlet wifi hydros device in the basement next to my RODI tank
3) used a Neptune PMUP w/ 120V adapter for my ATO pump in the basement. These have really good head pumping but they can fail. For the price, buy 2 if you use this. Otherwise look into the BRS peristaltic ATO pump, also has good head. Or maybe another option. Either way use a pump that can be adapted to RODI hose and is 120V.
4) I ran RODI hose all the way up to my display and through a 1/4" hole in the floor.
5) Under my display and before it empties into my display I installed a Hydros liquid solenoid valve off one of the drive ports. This is my safety backup incase the wifi outlet gets stuck on. This will always have a hard line to your controller so it will shut off regardless.
6) Setup the Hydros with the ATO profile using the wifi outlet and the level sensor in your display. Then make a cloned outlet for the liquid solenoid that runs the same state as the wifi outlet (or your remote pump).

I've been running this for weeks with no issues. You will get a txt alert if you ever lose connection to the wifi outlet. Then the solenoid will stop any major issues from happening (overfilling) but really it shouldnt ever happen.

 

[JeffB418]

As for long runs of data cables. I will be making and selling a Hydros Command Bus to RJ45/Ethernet Cable adapter set. This will allow you to use any CAT5/6 cable to run a long distance command bus interface. I am currently running around 125ft in my setup.

 

[TragicDog]

The wifi plug will stay in the last configuration it was sent if your router goes down between your Control 4 and the wifi outlet. The Control 4 will still operate as normal locally.

I did exactly what you are speaking of, I have a RODI tank in my basement but I didn't want to run a separate Hydros controller in the basement yet. So this is what I did with a Control 2 on a display in my livingroom:
1) installed the Control 2 on my display upstairs, installed an optical water level sensor in the display
2) used a single outlet wifi hydros device in the basement next to my RODI tank
3) used a Neptune PMUP w/ 120V adapter for my ATO pump in the basement. These have really good head pumping but they can fail. For the price, buy 2 if you use this. Otherwise look into the BRS peristaltic ATO pump, also has good head. Or maybe another option. Either way use a pump that can be adapted to RODI hose and is 120V.
4) I ran RODI hose all the way up to my display and through a 1/4" hole in the floor.
5) Under my display and before it empties into my display I installed a Hydros liquid solenoid valve off one of the drive ports. This is my safety backup incase the wifi outlet gets stuck on. This will always have a hard line to your controller so it will shut off regardless.
6) Setup the Hydros with the ATO profile using the wifi outlet and the level sensor in your display. Then make a cloned outlet for the liquid solenoid that runs the same state as the wifi outlet (or your remote pump).

I've been running this for weeks with no issues. You will get a txt alert if you ever lose connection to the wifi outlet. Then the solenoid will stop any major issues from happening (overfilling) but really it shouldn't ever happen.

Perfect @JeffB418 Exactly what I wanted to hear.

Why the control2 and not the 4? What else are you doing with the Control2? Size tank?


I wish I had a basement. I have to go through an attic that is only accessible via 2'x2' hole.

 

[John Neuzil]

Perfect @JeffB418 Exactly what I wanted to hear.

Why the control2 and not the 4? What else are you doing with the Control2? Size tank?


I wish I had a basement. I have to go through an attic that is only accessible via 2'x2' hole.

It would work on either one

 

[JeffB418]

Perfect @JeffB418 Exactly what I wanted to hear.

Why the control2 and not the 4? What else are you doing with the Control2? Size tank?


I wish I had a basement. I have to go through an attic that is only accessible via 2'x2' hole.

I am only doing temp, ato sensor, and solenoid on the control 2, everything else is on the wifi strip. its just a little 40 gallon AIO. it would work on either unit.

 

[TragicDog]

I am only doing temp, ato sensor, and solenoid on the control 2, everything else is on the wifi strip. its just a little 40 gallon AIO. it would work on either unit.

ok, makes sense. I want the 0-10v to control my maxspect gyre. even though it's the same app. not sure it it's really needed though. hmmm... would allow me to get in at 200 and then buy a control 4 later and move the control 2 into the garage... hmmmmmm