DIY Guide: 36VDC Devices on Kraken Force Ports

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JeffB418

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This DIY tutorial shows you how to run some 36VDC devices (like the Varios 6/8) on a Kraken Force (24V) port. Note: this is a DIY method and please understand everything in this guide before attempting, failure to do so could damage your equipment. Coralvue, nor I, take any responsibility. Got it? Ok good, proceed.

Theory: You will use an external device called a DC to DC booster. This device takes a lower DC voltage and "boosts" it or increases it to a higher voltage. I have found a unit that will take a wide input voltage range (9V-32V) and output a constant 36V. This wide voltage input range covers not only the standard Force Port voltage of 24V but also 12V that a Force Port outputs while on battery power (if you enable that port during battery mode).

Considerations: This adds an additional external device to power your item. Also you must be aware of power draw of your device, plus understand current draw at different input powers. The device shown here can power MAX of 5A at 36V or 180W, but I highly recommend keeping your 36V device power draw under 90W otherwise you can get into issues with exceeding power limits elsewhere (see below in battery power considerations section).

Concept: In short, you will have a cable from your Kraken Force port, to the DC/DC booster, then to your 36V device. In this example we are powering a varios 8 pump controller.

1698243348822.png

Wiring:
- For wiring from the Force Port to the DC/DC Booster, use a standard Coralvue Force Cable (HYDROS Force Port 24v Adapter Cable), this cable allows you to connect either a male or female DC barrel (5.5x2.1) connector, just remove the included adapter if you want to use the male version.
1698243590685.png
- For the DC/DC Booster, I will show you how to add DC barrel connectors to it below. The input side of the DC booster will plug into the above Force Port Cable and the output side will go to your 36V device.

DC/DC Booster:
The DC booster I recommend is this unit: https://a.co/d/bh9umUG (Note the DC/DC booster must have a wide input voltage range that covers both 12/24V)
Then buy 2x of these DC barrel pigtail cables: DC barrel cables
If you are not good at soldering, I highly recommend using these level wire nuts: Lever Wire Nuts

Using the above items, wire up the booster as follows, matching RED wires on the DC barrel cables to the POSITIVE (red or yellow) wires on the booster. Make sure to note that the input side DC barrel connects to the yellow side, and output to the red side. NOTE: since posting this, I have been told that the INPUT and OUTPUT colors VARY between models (and even units) and you MUST make sure which side is the input/output power based on the device you have. They should be marked on the unit you get which is in and out.

1698243867291.png

Final Connection Diagram:

Connect your devices as follows:

1698244242382.png


Power/Battery Mode Power Considerations:

Above I recommended to keep 36V devices under 90W just to avoid issues, but this section explains why.


Finally, something VERY important to understand is how power draw works for different source voltages. The output voltage will ALWAYS be the same regardless if you are using a force port in normal 24V mode, or battery 12V mode. Therefore the current draw on the force port itself WILL change based on the voltage mode (12V vs 24V).

For example, if you are running a 36V pump that is running at max power of 180W, that's 5A at 36V. But on the input side of the DC booster, that is actually around 8A at 24V (Power/Voltage=I(current), 180W/24V = 7.5A (plus some loss for the converter, so we round up). Which puts us RIGHT at the max current limit for a Force Port. That is fine though. The issue is if you switch this Force Port on during battery mode, which is 12V. Using the calculation above again, 180W/12V = 15A (plus 0.5A for converter loss), this would cause the pump to pull over 15A at 12V, which is WAY beyond the limit for a Force Port, plus beyond the 10A limit for the battery backup port. So be VERY aware of 24V vs 12V Battery current draw needs when using a booster!

How to get around this issue? A few ways:
1) Don't enable this port/device during battery mode at all. Avoid the 12V use case completely.
2) Run the pump at 50% speed (90w) all the time, this way on normal Force Port mode at 24V, you draw about 4A and on battery you draw about 8A on 12V. This avoids any over current issues completely.
 
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This DIY tutorial shows you how to run some 36VDC devices (like the Varios 6/8) on a Kraken Force (24V) port. Note: this is a DIY method and please understand everything in this guide before attempting, failure to do so could damage your equipment. Coralvue, nor I, take any responsibility. Got it? Ok good, proceed.

Theory: You will use an external device called a DC to DC booster. This device takes a lower DC voltage and "boosts" it or increases it to a higher voltage. I have found a unit that will take a wide input voltage range (9V-32V) and output a constant 36V. This wide voltage input range covers not only the standard Force Port voltage of 24V but also 12V that a Force Port outputs while on battery power (if you enable that port during battery mode).

Considerations: This adds an additional external device to power your item. Also you must be aware of power draw of your device, plus understand current draw at different input powers. The device shown here can power MAX of 5A at 36V or 180W, but I highly recommend keeping your 36V device power draw under 90W otherwise you can get into issues with exceeding power limits elsewhere (see below in battery power considerations section).

Concept: In short, you will have a cable from your Kraken Force port, to the DC/DC booster, then to your 36V device. In this example we are powering a varios 8 pump controller.

View attachment 3888

Wiring:
- For wiring from the Force Port to the DC/DC Booster, use a standard Coralvue Force Cable (HYDROS Force Port 24v Adapter Cable), this cable allows you to connect either a male or female DC barrel (5.5x2.1) connector, just remove the included adapter if you want to use the male version.
View attachment 3890
- For the DC/DC Booster, I will show you how to add DC barrel connectors to it below. The input side of the DC booster will plug into the above Force Port Cable and the output side will go to your 36V device.

DC/DC Booster:
The DC booster I recommend is this unit: DC/DC 36V Booster (Note the DC/DC booster must have a wide input voltage range that covers both 12/24V)
Then buy 2x of these DC barrel pigtail cables: DC barrel cables
If you are not good at soldering, I highly recommend using these level wire nuts: Lever Wire Nuts

Using the above items, wire up the booster as follows, matching RED wires on the DC barrel cables to the POSITIVE (red or yellow) wires on the booster. Make sure to note that the input side DC barrel connects to the yellow side, and output to the red side.

View attachment 3891

Final Connection Diagram:

Connect your devices as follows:

View attachment 3892


Power/Battery Mode Power Considerations:

Above I recommended to keep 36V devices under 90W just to avoid issues, but this section explains why.


Finally, something VERY important to understand is how power draw works for different source voltages. The output voltage will ALWAYS be the same regardless if you are using a force port in normal 24V mode, or battery 12V mode. Therefore the current draw on the force port itself WILL change based on the voltage mode (12V vs 24V).

For example, if you are running a 36V pump that is running at max power of 180W, that's 5A at 36V. But on the input side of the DC booster, that is actually around 8A at 24V (Power/Voltage=I(current), 180W/24V = 7.5A (plus some loss for the converter, so we round up). Which puts us RIGHT at the max current limit for a Force Port. That is fine though. The issue is if you switch this Force Port on during battery mode, which is 12V. Using the calculation above again, 180W/12V = 15A (plus 0.5A for converter loss), this would cause the pump to pull over 15A at 12V, which is WAY beyond the limit for a Force Port, plus beyond the 10A limit for the battery backup port. So be VERY aware of 24V vs 12V Battery current draw needs when using a booster!

How to get around this issue? A few ways:
1) Don't enable this port/device during battery mode at all. Avoid the 12V use case completely.
2) Run the pump at 50% speed (90w) all the time, this way on normal Force Port mode at 24V, you draw about 4A and on battery you draw about 8A on 12V. This avoids any over current issues completely.
Could I do the same thing for an MP40 using something like this?
 
This DIY tutorial shows you how to run some 36VDC devices (like the Varios 6/8) on a Kraken Force (24V) port. Note: this is a DIY method and please understand everything in this guide before attempting, failure to do so could damage your equipment. Coralvue, nor I, take any responsibility. Got it? Ok good, proceed.

Theory: You will use an external device called a DC to DC booster. This device takes a lower DC voltage and "boosts" it or increases it to a higher voltage. I have found a unit that will take a wide input voltage range (9V-32V) and output a constant 36V. This wide voltage input range covers not only the standard Force Port voltage of 24V but also 12V that a Force Port outputs while on battery power (if you enable that port during battery mode).

Considerations: This adds an additional external device to power your item. Also you must be aware of power draw of your device, plus understand current draw at different input powers. The device shown here can power MAX of 5A at 36V or 180W, but I highly recommend keeping your 36V device power draw under 90W otherwise you can get into issues with exceeding power limits elsewhere (see below in battery power considerations section).

Concept: In short, you will have a cable from your Kraken Force port, to the DC/DC booster, then to your 36V device. In this example we are powering a varios 8 pump controller.

View attachment 3888

Wiring:
- For wiring from the Force Port to the DC/DC Booster, use a standard Coralvue Force Cable (HYDROS Force Port 24v Adapter Cable), this cable allows you to connect either a male or female DC barrel (5.5x2.1) connector, just remove the included adapter if you want to use the male version.
View attachment 3890
- For the DC/DC Booster, I will show you how to add DC barrel connectors to it below. The input side of the DC booster will plug into the above Force Port Cable and the output side will go to your 36V device.

DC/DC Booster:
The DC booster I recommend is this unit: DC/DC 36V Booster (Note the DC/DC booster must have a wide input voltage range that covers both 12/24V)
Then buy 2x of these DC barrel pigtail cables: DC barrel cables
If you are not good at soldering, I highly recommend using these level wire nuts: Lever Wire Nuts

Using the above items, wire up the booster as follows, matching RED wires on the DC barrel cables to the POSITIVE (red or yellow) wires on the booster. Make sure to note that the input side DC barrel connects to the yellow side, and output to the red side. NOTE: since posting this, I have been told that the INPUT and OUTPUT colors VARY between models (and even units) and you MUST make sure which side is the input/output power based on the device you have. They should be marked on the unit you get which is in and out.

View attachment 3891

Final Connection Diagram:

Connect your devices as follows:

View attachment 3892


Power/Battery Mode Power Considerations:

Above I recommended to keep 36V devices under 90W just to avoid issues, but this section explains why.


Finally, something VERY important to understand is how power draw works for different source voltages. The output voltage will ALWAYS be the same regardless if you are using a force port in normal 24V mode, or battery 12V mode. Therefore the current draw on the force port itself WILL change based on the voltage mode (12V vs 24V).

For example, if you are running a 36V pump that is running at max power of 180W, that's 5A at 36V. But on the input side of the DC booster, that is actually around 8A at 24V (Power/Voltage=I(current), 180W/24V = 7.5A (plus some loss for the converter, so we round up). Which puts us RIGHT at the max current limit for a Force Port. That is fine though. The issue is if you switch this Force Port on during battery mode, which is 12V. Using the calculation above again, 180W/12V = 15A (plus 0.5A for converter loss), this would cause the pump to pull over 15A at 12V, which is WAY beyond the limit for a Force Port, plus beyond the 10A limit for the battery backup port. So be VERY aware of 24V vs 12V Battery current draw needs when using a booster!

How to get around this issue? A few ways:
1) Don't enable this port/device during battery mode at all. Avoid the 12V use case completely.
2) Run the pump at 50% speed (90w) all the time, this way on normal Force Port mode at 24V, you draw about 4A and on battery you draw about 8A on 12V. This avoids any over current issues completely.
Since I have my VarioS 4 (two of them) and Octo 2 running through the WEv2, could I boost 12V to 24V to the WEv2 when on battery also?
 
So, if a ReefRun 7000 power supply has an output of 4a (max) @ 24v, could I run two DC/DC boosters off of one Force port to drive two return pumps? Just curious....running low on Force ports. During a low power situation, most of the force ports will be turned off but I would like to have the returns running. Not sure if the RR7000 will run on 12v. Kraken could drive that return port and the port WaveEngine is plugged into. Just curious....
 
are you still running these 36 converters with success?
I dont know about the one @JeffB418 mentioned, but the one I was trying to use to send 32v to my MP40 kept overheating and turning off. Based on the reviews it seems to be a common issue with many of these boosters. Don't know why I cant seem to find one that is reliable.
 
are you still running these 36 converters with success?
So I only use my 36V booster currently on a backup pump in case i lose power. I do check the pump daily for 15 mins to make sure it still works. And to this point I havent had any issues. But I am not running it all the time anymore. But in the start I did run it 24/7 to test it out, and had no issues.
 
I dont know about the one @JeffB418 mentioned, but the one I was trying to use to send 32v to my MP40 kept overheating and turning off. Based on the reviews it seems to be a common issue with many of these boosters. Don't know why I cant seem to find one that is reliable.
What part did you use? I couldnt find any 32V models.
 
So, if a ReefRun 7000 power supply has an output of 4a (max) @ 24v, could I run two DC/DC boosters off of one Force port to drive two return pumps? Just curious....running low on Force ports. During a low power situation, most of the force ports will be turned off but I would like to have the returns running. Not sure if the RR7000 will run on 12v. Kraken could drive that return port and the port WaveEngine is plugged into. Just curious....

So looking at the actually Red Sea ReefRun DC 7000, it has a max power rating of 65W. So at 65W/24V, that's about 3A per pump. Now you will want to use the DC/DC booster I have over in this thread: https://forum.coralvuehydros.com/threads/diy-guide-24v-jebao-pumps-on-kraken-battery.2112/ since its 12V/24V to 24V. You do not want the 36V version above.

Now I would not run 2 reefrun pumps off 1 DC/DC booster... that will be too close to the 6A max of the DC/DC booster. But now lets see if you can run 2 boosters off 1 Force port.

Force port has a max 8A limit (at both 12V or 24V). So if the max power of 1 pump is 65W, and that's about a 3A draw at 24V, its about a 6A draw if on battery/12V. So then 2 pumps would draw up to 12A at 12V... which is way over the 8A limit for 1 force port. So NO you can not run 2 reefrun 7000 pumps off one force port. You are better off looking at other force ports you might be able to combine that will not be used during battery mode and split up your reefrun pumps to 2 force ports. But also there is another limit you have to keep in mind.... Kraken has a 10A/12V limit on the battery. If you did split up your reefrun pumps, you still would hit that 10A limit since both pumps at 100% power would pull 12A alone. But that being said, if you dont run your pumps at 100% right now, you might be able to keep it under that 10A limit.
 
Yes, I was thinking of two DC/DC boosters on one Force. Not sure what the pumps will run at. I doubt I would run either at 100%. I'm in the planning stages of an aquarium upgrade, so just looking ahead.

If I review what is currently running on the Kraken in my current aquarium, it doesn't look like any ports are really pulling much. Example, my RSK300 DC skimmer is running at 70% with a voltage of 24v, 759ma, and 18.1w. My Radion XR15G6 Pro is 24v, 1.28a, and 30.5 (may be still ramping up). Those two items, along with a few others, will be shutdown during "low power". You would think I would have some head room.

I most likely will NOT run two pumps (or two DC/DC boosters) on a force port and just swap things out. I really like not having all those power bricks, so trying to put as much as I can on the Kraken. I will be putting 3 AI Blades 48" on the Kraken on the new setup. Again, lights will not be used in "low power".

Thinking about adding an EcoFlow for additional backup, but will see how much time I can get with the current setup. All comes down to do I want the returns, or at least one of them, running during power outage.

Thanks for your time!
 
This work?


Also, would running one of these on an mp40 and running the 24v on a mightyjet return pump be okay using 2 boosters?
 
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