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Sure, it’s the same thing to make. You can either have two headphone jacks on the feed box (wired in parallel), or a single jack on the feed box and use a headphone splitter to get to both controllers.

Guide for creating a Hydros-Compatible Aquarium Fan This Hydros-Compatible fan system reduces peak tank temperatures by a several degrees on systems around ~90 gallons. It is designed to work with Hydros Drive/Force ports, and can use off-the-shelf cables perfect for those who cannot solder...

Can you use one of those IP67 LED strips, stuck in place on your existing light fixture? That may be easier than the pod style lights and provide more even coverage.

Yes, 5v is still required. How else can you create the 1v-5v signals? If/when the board you ordered does not work, shoot me a message and I can send you one like this (image attached) that is designed for hydros. The hydros 0-10v port has a 5v supply so it’s somewhat easy to connect.

I am 90% sure it won’t work. Not the correct resistors for the Hydros analog input.

Out of curiosity, have you tried this yourself?

Looking at the data sheet it appears compatible. Accepts a 5v input, and they provide the needed linear equation to covert voltage to RH.

Right now you are just using the Temperature side "T". I believe if you want relative humidity "RH" you will *just* need to run the other blue wire to a 2nd channel, without connecting another red/black pair. Sensor is already powered, just need the humidity output.

Looks great, especially using proper ferrules! Glad the programming instructions were sufficient- my goal is to make it practically "Copy & Paste" so total beginners can do it.

I just boxed up yours, it will go out tomorrow. I included an image of how the Ambient temperature/Humidity sensor wiring should go, and there are also step by step instructions to set that up in the get started guide. I saw your comment about a housing for the DFRobot sensor but unfortunately...

It needs to be analog- in theory the 2nd one would work. However I believe the sensor requires more than the 150ma of power that the breakout box is capable of, so you would need to power it from another source such as a 5v USB port. I prefer a more refined one such as this: Co2 Sensor #...

Thats great, glad you found it easy! If you want to add any other sensor it would be the same procedure. My next 'Hydros addition will be adding an analog current sensor to graph the total power use of my system. As long the sensor outputs in the 0-10v range it should be *compatible. Not sure...

Most CO2 sensors that output a 0-5v are in the $75-150 range, depending on the model and if it has a built in display or calibration features. Typically these sensors come with either a short wire or no wire at all. I just placed it next to the breakout because I wanted to know the humidity in...

I sell the breakout box for $39.99 shipped Of course you can also DIY one if you are good with soldering and wiring. The one I offer is in a custom 3D printed housing with the soldering and assembly already completed. The humidity + temperature sensor is about $12 from amazon or DFRobot...

Sure. Numbers are from this link, displayed in front of the graph. Temperature (Set type Temperature, as it automatically converts the Celsius to Fahrenheit): Scale Factor: 72.917 Offset: -66.875 Humidity (Set type Generic) Scale Factor: 41.667 Offset: -12.5

You add a 0-10v input, type analog, choose what 0-10v channel it is connected to, then insert the sensors scale factor and offset. That last part *sounds scary*, but are simply numbers that come with the sensor data sheet. I can give you the actual valves to enter there if you need them, as it...

Yes, exactly. The purpose of the breakout box is that users can attach wires directly to it instead of having to fiddle with connectors by themselves.

No no. I assume you bought the breakout box, which plugs into the 0-10v Input. It makes it plug and play. No other ports are required on the Control4 (besides the 0-10v port it plugs into). All wires just enter my breakout box, no connectors required. Red bare wire goes into the upper left red...

Red is power (Upper left 5v), black is ground (any lower terminal), blue is the signal output. So you can connect humidity output to 1 channel, and temperature output to another. Etc

Thanks for the heads up! It will be challenging to send out any new switch boxes- perhaps I need to mark the switch boxes out of stock until the next firmware update when this is corrected. Hard to explain that the main switch box functionality is unavailable.